羊毛衫的制作工艺流程

1、抓绒

每年五六月份，牧民们开始为山羊抓绒。冬天过去，天气回暖，羊绒开始自然脱落，如果山羊头部的绒毛开始脱落，就可以确定这只羊到梳绒的时候了。

取绒时先剪掉外层长毛，再用稀梳子把被毛上的碎草、粪便顺毛方轻轻梳掉，随后用密梳子逆毛而梳。梳子要贴近皮肤，用力要均匀，不要用力过猛，以免梳伤皮肤。

2、收绒

每年五六月份也是羊绒商家们收购羊绒的时节。我国是全世界最大的羊绒产出国，世界70％以上的优质羊绒原料及产品均生产于中国，且羊绒品质世界一流。

3、选绒

从收集到的原绒中选出掺杂其中的草、山羊粪便、小石子等杂物。

4、洗绒

通过水洗工序，洗去羊绒中的杂质、气味，并进行消毒。

5、梳绒

毛绒分梳，通过专业设备，将羊绒与掺杂其中的羊毛分离开来，保证羊绒的纯度。

6、配色

实验室配色，寻找需要染的颜色的最佳染料配方，对羊绒进行染色打样。

7、染色

将染料按实验室的配比调制，对羊绒进行染色。羊绒纤维具有很好的吸湿性，染色后不掉色，色彩饱和度高。

8、纺线

通过专业设备，将染好色的羊绒加工成羊绒纱线。

9、编织

根据设计，按一定的程序将纱线编织成一定形状的羊绒片面。

10、机缝

对编织好的羊绒片面进行缝合。

11、手缝

除去机缝后的封口纱，收起线头等。缝盘工要留意每个工序开始时的缝线量度，因每个工序不一定缝线的要求松紧度是相同的，比如领与埋夹、上袖、锁眼及衫脚、袖咀位的松紧度都不同。

12、洗缩

缩绒指在湿、热状态下，羊绒通过摩擦，纤维间相互穿插纠缠，从纵、横向收缩，厚度、紧度增加，表面形成一层短而密的绒毛，从而使织物组织更加紧密，产品外观更加丰满，且手感滑糯，富于弹性。

13、熨烫

洗缩烘干后，蒸汽熨烫使衣服定型，保持样式特点。

14、拔毛

检验人员挑选出可能残留在衣服上的羊毛，保证衣服的舒适度。

15、成衣包装

检验完毕后，把合格的羊绒衫按要求折叠好，装入包装袋中，平整放入纸箱中。

注意事项：

样品分析，即根据样品资料，确定原料纱支、配色、机号、坯布组织及密度， 通过实验小样，确定织物的回缩率及成品密度。按样品及合约要求，制定规格尺寸，初步确定单件用料定额及辅助物料等; 理论计算横机产品的编织操作工艺单，或按款式和规格制定圆机产品的织物门幅，及针筒尺寸。

初步确定回缩率、计算吓数初稿工艺进行试样性投产;以试样产品为基础，对试样产品进行分析、鉴定，确定生产工艺(包括横机、 圆机、裁剪排料图和后整理等。计算衣片重量或单件排料面积重量，损耗率和用毛量;定出横机产品的剪裁 样板和按样板的排料方法。

制定成衣工艺流程和要求，横机产品根据织物单位线圈重量与各衣片线圈数求出单位产品理论重量。 计算横机单件产品的原料耗用量，制定横机所编织半成品的质量要求。 制定缝纫工艺流程和质量要求，制定染色和后整理工艺及质量的要求，确定产品出厂重量、商标、及包装形式。

为保证产品的质量要求，一定要先试验、后定工艺，先封样、后投产试样后，经小批生产核实工艺，方可批量生产。

同时，在工艺方面，因为针织面料的伸缩性很好，在进行样板设计的时候能够最大限度地减少为造型而设计的收褶、接缝、拼接等工序。

而且，针织面料通常也不适宜运用推归、 拔烫等的技巧造型，而是运用面料本身的弹性或者是适当的运用褶皱手法的处理， 从而达到适合人体曲线的效果。那么面料的伸缩性就成为在样板设计制作时候的 一个非常重要的依据。

尽力了啊，朋友。

1, Keyhole: Keyhole uniform neat and should be elastic, not tight

Second, sewing shoulder: the shoulder bone shoulder recessed top can not get buried and not a sparse hole is straight, Chuan Chuan is a plus with a level of bone, with one third down Chuan down, two-thirds up, head and tail to break into 05 bead, lead paste is double collar, collar edge bead affixed to package in the collar, the shoulder joint after the shoulder receiving flowers can not have crazy side

3, split shoulder yarn: yarn should not be removed from the ear ring cramps or another

4, the sleeve: to be symmetrical flower positions, folder level low should not be sewn sleeve top in place should not be twisted bone, not a silly side

5, buried folder: Folders can not be buried there crazy side, sleeve suture bone should not be a snake to be straight, shirt sleeves Tsui foot level and not have to stay 5CM braid class

6, the collar: collar not even take the minute hand should be buried or pulled, the collar is not too thick or the Mouth of the outstanding hybrid yarn, not a single hair or missing eyes, lead paste or inalienable after forwarding port after move to according to instructions

7, sewing chest Posts: Siping chest size to accurately paste, paste the minute hand should be evenly horizontal right and left foot shirts, bags places to symmetry, shirt pulling themselves reduced to the uniform and should not be silly side, convex edge, a snake, after the leading bit slips to be straight, keyhole line is to be neat, can not get buried or pulled 8, sewing bags posted: Siping bags affixed to accurately size, cross-posted the minute hand should be uniform, so the bag should be symmetrical, uniform and bag pull should not be reduced to silly side

Notes: hair must be matching sewing, sewing needle tops the number and looping the number of in accordance with the instructions, stitching elastic must not have played well or not elastic coils, leading to sufficient tension, between the color of the room can not have a certain level

31, before and after the sleeve, and threaten poor column can not have tanks

32, shirt pin, cuff Tsui, collar and shirt body affixed to the same color

33, can not be buried in a large apricot lead Tsui fine, both sides should be symmetrical

34, double bead is not too full, cover must not be skewed, the underside of needles should Qi Scared to even field

35, keyhole line not from the ears or too tight, jumpers and missed eye

36, buried folder on the branch, on the pit, on the colors, not with the level of pit and drain side

37, lead can not be tainted eyes, not a roar and broken needles

38, the folder should be elastic paste, not too tight or from the ears

39, V-Neck Color certain both sides of the symmetry between left and right, single bead is not too much

310, leading a round shape is smooth, collar-bit side should be more than 30CM

311, between both sides of chest paste color to symmetry, chest paste Diego is correct, Siping with not too long

312, buried shoulder to the uniform, not the length of shoulder belt, shoulder belt should be the same color shirt body

313, on the sleeve to the flowers and turn element angle, whether the shoulder sleeve roar of bone

314, on the front fork legs are lifted, the next column are too long or too short

315, all the scraping edge is not crazy side, chipping, and pulled from the valley

316, all the sleeves Tsui, shirt feet do not have the level of phenomenon